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With very few exceptions, the vast majority of jiu jitsu gis - across all brands - are manufactured in one of three countries: Pakistan, China, and Brazil.

We did a little digging to bring you a short history of the Brazilian jiu jitsu gi, as well as some insight into the differences between those made in Brazil, those in China, and those in Pakistan. 

Brazil 

As the birthplace of Brazilian style jiu jitsu, it makes sense that Brazil would be the first country to begin making gis exclusively for the BJJ market. Before they did, however, practitioners of the emerging new martial art wore traditional judo gis. Atama and Krugens were among the first to the scene, lengthening the jackets and tapering the sleeves and pants to produce a kimono more suited to the grappling art. They were also the first brands to produce a 100% preshrunk gi. However, many Brazilian brands haven't invested much into new technologies and trends (such as "L" sizes and cuts specifically for women), so in the last decade, two other countries have swiftly come to command much more of the international market as BJJ gi manufacturers.

Pakistan

Pakistan entered the market in the late 1990's, but didn't obtain widespread acceptance - due to political stigma centered around the entire Middle Eastern region in the early 2000's -  until around 2009. Some of the first brands to import Pakistan-made gis were Lucky and Ouano. In the last decade, Pakistan has made dramatic progress in their quality and manufacturing efficiency.  In particular, they produce a superior cotton fabric, which for all-cotton gis (both jacket and pants) puts them ahead of the curve. It is estimated that approximately 70% of the gis in the U.S. market are made in Pakistan. However, they have not yet mastered the 100% preshrinking process, so expect these gis to shrink slightly.

China

Despite a long-standing tradition of kimono manufacturing - for all kinds of martial arts - China came to the Brazilian jiu jitsu much later. However, they are known to produce some of the most durable gis in the market. Typically, Chinese gis are 100% preshrunk, and fabric manufacturers there are incredibly adept at producing specialty fabrics, including Ripstop, hemp, and bamboo. Pakistan still beats them on the quality - and softness - of their cotton, however. It is estimated that China produces approximately 20% of the gis in the U.S. market. 

In a Nutshell

All three countries produce quality gis, which will last a long time... as long as you care for them properly. And yes, there are some brands which opt to produce their gis elsewhere - such as in the U.S. or Japan - but the vast majority of jiu jitsu gis are manufactured in just these three countries. 

If you've shopped enough jiu jitsu gis, you've probably asked yourself: What is all this "weave" nonsense about? What is the difference?

Well, we've broken it down for you...

GSM = Weight

Almost all jiu jitsu gi companies will identify the GSM of the fabric. This stands for "grams per square meter" and is the weight of the fabric used. Most gis range between 375 GSM and 890 GSM, with some outliers on either end. You'll typically see the lower range featured as Single Weave or Pearl Weave, the mid-ranges as Pearl Weaves or Gold Weaves, and the heavier end of the spectrum as Double Weaves. 

Unfortunately, there's no official naming standard in the gi market, and some gi companies will simply use Pearl, Gold, and Double, as it directly correlates to the fabric's weight. 

Weave = Appearance

However, you may have noticed that the fabric on some gis look a little different. That's because there is actually a difference in weaves. This has to do with the manner in which the "weft" is woven through the "warp." The warp refers to the set of threads, aligned parallel to each other, that are stretched on the loom first, before the weft is woven through. 

Single Weave

A single weave, logically, entails one set of warp, with weft woven through. In the gi world, a single weave usually is the simplest version of this, with weft crossing over one warp thread and under another. This leaves a smooth, flat appearance to the fabric. Notably, under this definition, pearl and gold weaves are also technically single weave fabrics. However, what differentiates them is how the weft is woven.

Pearl Weave

As its name implies, the pearl weave has the appearance of multiple strings of pearls aligned together. This happens when a looser, wider weft is alternated with a thinner, tighter weft. The looser weft creates the appearance of raised pearl-looking bumps. The Pearl Weave Plus is similar, but the looser weft is woven at a slight diagonal, giving a flattened rope appearance. Pearl weaves are the most common fabrics used for gi jackets.

Gold Weave

A gold weave has a distinct ladder appearance, created when wider, heavier warp threads are interspersed between thinner warp threads, and the looser weft is woven over an entire section of the thinner warp threads, before weaving through another section, then jumping back over again. Similarly, a honey comb weave also features weft jumping across several rows of warp threads, but without the delineating heavy warp threads, the a more hexagonal "honey comb" shape is left in the areas where the weft weaves tightly through warp.

Double Weave

A true double weave fabric is when two or more sets of warps and one or more sets of weft are woven together, essentially creating a double layered fabric. Because significantly more threads occupy the same square meter space, the fabric is therefore much heavier. 

What's Better? 

"Better" is all personal preference. Sorry guys and gals, we don't have the magic answer for you on that. 

Some people like lighter gis, some heavier. Some people feel a double weave is harder for their opponent to maintain grips. Some claim the gold weave shrinks more than the others. Some people think the heavier the gi, the more durable it is and the longer it lasts. This last claim does appear to have anecdotal support, but the longevity of your gi is affected more by its use and care than by its weave. 

When it comes to gis and their weaves, there are only two things that really matter: heavy versus light (or something in between), and how you like the feel and look of the fabric. 

A good basic jiu jitsu gi is a staple in every jiu jitsu player's closet. Not only is it an inexpensive entry gi for those new to the gentle art, but it's also a good wardrobe filler for the serious practitioner, the kind who trains several times a week and puts a lot of miles on their kimonos. 

The bjj gi market features a ton of great basic, entry-level jiu jitsu gis. We know... we've tried and tested them all, bringing you only the best. 

But even among the best, there are variations. So we decided to give you a run-down of our three favorites: 

KINGZ BASIC 2.0

Released in 2016, the second edition of Kingz' Basic BJJ Gi features a lightweight 400 GSM High-Tech Pearl Weave jacket, 10 oz cotton pants, and newly designed woven patches along both shoulders and a single square patch on the front left hip. This gi comes with a free white belt, and has a cut for women and kids.

Color options - White, Blue, Black

Price point - $89.95

TATAMI NOVA

In it's latest - 2015 - iteration, the Tatami Nova BJJ Gi features a relatively lightweight 425 GSM High-Tech Single Weave jacket, 10 oz twill cotton pants, and woven patches along both shoulders and down both legs. This gi also comes with a free white belt, and has a cut for women and kids.

Color options - White, Blue, Black

Price point - $89.95

FUJI ALL AROUND (VICTORY)

Having been around for about a decade, the Fuji All Around BJJ Gi pretty much set the standard for affordable, basic gis. It features a mid-weight cotton single weave jacket, durable cotton pants, and exceptionally minimal styling, with the Fuji logo embroidered on the left arm and back of the jacket. This gi does not come with a free white belt. Fuji does offer a kid's version of this gi.

Color options- White, Blue, Black, Navy

Price point - $90.99

IN REVIEW

As you can see, each of these gis are comparable, but offer something just a bit different than the others. Your choice between the three will ultimately come down to gi weight and fit.

Fuji is the heaviest of the three, followed by Tatami and then Kingz. Depending on your individual goals - everyday training versus competition, for example - you might prefer a lighter gi over a heavier, or vice versa. As a great basic gi should, all three have a solid range of sizing, with options for the variety of body types, including the shorter, longer-limbed, or huskier practitioners. Fuji tends to be roomier in the arms and shoulders; Kingz has a more tailored, competition style cut, but offers a few popular H (husky) sizes; and Tatami has options for both the shorter (S) and extra-long (XL) individuals. 

Of course, nothing beats trying the gi on yourself - so don't miss an opportunity to hit up the Fighters Market San Diego store and our booths at the major IBJJF events. But for those who can't, we hope this article gives you a good place to start! 

Train on. Oss.

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There's really only one thing a jiu jitsu nut wants... and that's more jiu jitsu gear. But shopping for that special something can be intimidating. Especially if you don't already train. A1? What size is that?? Does your friend/sister/dad/second cousin want an illustrated rashguard... or something more simple? What is this "spats" nonsense? Are those leggings or tights? 

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